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- CARRY OUT the Powertrain/Drivetrain Mount Neutralizing
procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Drumming noise - occurs inside the vehicle during idle or high idle, hot or cold. Very low-frequency drumming is very rpm dependent
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- Engine vibration excites the body resonances inducing interior noise
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- CARRY OUT the Powertrain/Drivetrain Mount Neutralizing
procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine drumming noise - accompanied by vibration
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- CARRY OUT the Powertrain/Drivetrain Mount Neutralizing
procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Rattle - occurs at idle or at light acceleration from a stop
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- Whine/moan type noise - pitch increases or changes with vehicle speed
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- Clunk - occurs when shifting from PARK or between REVERSE and DRIVE
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- CHECK for the correct idle speed. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Accessory drive bearing hoot - occurs at idle or high idle in cold temperatures of approximately 4°C (40°F) or colder at the first start of the day
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- Accessory drive idler or tensioner pulley bearing is experiencing stick/slip between ball bearings and the bearing race
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- CARRY OUT the engine cold soak procedure. REFER to VEHICLE COLD SOAK PROCEDURE
.
- PLACE the Engine EAR probe directly on the idler/tensioner center post or bolt to verify which bearing is making the noise. INSTALL new parts as necessary. Refer to ENGINE
(2.5L), ENGINE
(Hybrid), ENGINE
(3.0L) and ENGINE
(3.5L)
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Accessory drive belt noise, squeal or chirping
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- Defective/worn or incorrect accessory drive belt
- Misaligned pulley(s)
- Pulley runout
- Damaged or worn accessory drive component or idler
- Fluid contamination of the accessory drive belt or pulleys
- Damaged or worn accessory drive belt tensioner
- Damaged pulley grooves
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- CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REFER to ENGINE ACCESSORY TEST
. INSPECT components and INSTALL new parts as necessary. Refer to ENGINE
(2.5L), ENGINE
(Hybrid), ENGINE
(3.0L) and ENGINE
(3.5L)
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Coolant pump has excessive end play or imbalance
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- CHECK the coolant pump for excessive end play. INSPECT the coolant pump for imbalance with the drive belt off. INSTALL a new coolant pump as necessary. REFER to ENGINE COOLING
or ENGINE COOLING
for Hybrid
. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- CHECK the air cleaner and ducts for correct fit. INSPECT the air intake system for leaks or damage. REPAIR as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Whistling noise - normally accompanied with poor idle condition
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- CHECK the air intake ducts, air cleaner, Throttle Body (TB) and vacuum hoses for leaks and correct fit. REPAIR or ADJUST as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Hissing noise - occurs during idle or high idle that is apparent with the hood open
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- USE the Engine EAR/Chassis EAR to locate the source. SCAN the air intake system from the inlet to each cylinder intake port. DISCARD the leaking parts, and INSTALL a new component. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Vehicles with a plastic intake manifold
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- Acceptable condition. Some plastic intake manifolds exhibit this noise, which is the effect of the plastic manifold.
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- Grinding noise - occurs during engine cranking
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- Incorrect starter motor mounting
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- INSPECT the starter motor for correct mounting. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to INSPECTION AND VERIFICATION
. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Incorrect starter motor drive engagement
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- Engine noise, front of engine - knocking noise from lower front of engine
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- Damaged or separated crankshaft pulley/damper
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- CHECK for obvious signs of damage or wobble during operation. INSTALL new as necessary. Refer to ENGINE
(2.5L), ENGINE
(Hybrid), ENGINE
(3.0L) and ENGINE
(3.5L)
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine noise, front of engine - ticking, tapping or rattling noise from the front of the engine
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- Engine noise, upper end - ticking noise near the fuel rail and intake manifold
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- CHECK for loose or damaged fuel rail clip(s). REPAIR as necessary.
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- Engine noise, upper end - ticking, knocking or rattle noise that occurs during idle or high idle during the first cold start of the day and may disappear as the engine warms
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- Valve train noise (bled down lash adjuster)
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- CARRY OUT the Valve Train Analysis Component Test. INSTALL new parts as necessary. Refer to ENGINE
(2.5L), ENGINE
(Hybrid), ENGINE
(3.0L) and ENGINE
(3.5L)
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine noise, upper end - occurs mostly with a warm engine at light/medium acceleration
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- Worn or damaged spark plugs
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- Carbon accumulation in combustion chamber
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- Bore scope the cylinder. ELIMINATE carbon buildup. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine noise, upper end - rattling noise from the valve train. Worse when the engine is cold
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- CHECK the oil level. FILL as necessary.
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- INSPECT the oil for contamination. If the oil is contaminated, CHECK for the source. REPAIR as necessary. CHANGE the oil and filter.
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- CARRY OUT an oil pressure test. If not within specifications, REMOVE the engine oil pan. Refer to REMOVAL
(2.5L), REMOVAL
(Hybrid), REMOVAL
(3.0L) and REMOVAL
(3.5L)
for the procedure. INSPECT for a blocked oil pick up tube.
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- Worn valve train components
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- CARRY OUT the Valve Train Analysis Component Test. INSTALL new parts as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Excessive runout of the valve seats on the valve face
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- Engine noise, upper end - pinging noise
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- VERIFY with customer the type of gasoline used. CORRECT as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Knock Sensor (KS) operation
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- CHECK the KS
. INSTALL a new KS as necessary. Refer to appropriate Engine article
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- CHECK the spark timing. REPAIR as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- High operating temperature
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- INSPECT the cooling system for leaks. CHECK the coolant level. REFILL as necessary. CHECK the coolant for the correct mix ratio. DRAIN and REFILL as needed. VERIFY the engine operating temperature is within specifications. REPAIR as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- CHECK the spark plugs. REPAIR or INSTALL new spark plugs as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- COMPARE with a similar vehicle for what is acceptable noise.
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- Engine noise, lower end - ticking or knocking noise near the oil filter adapter
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- USE the Engine EAR to verify the oil pump as the source of the noise at low rpm. REPAIR as necessary. Refer to ENGINE
(2.5L), ENGINE
(Hybrid), ENGINE
(3.0L) and ENGINE
(3.5L)
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine noise, lower end - light knocking noise, also described as piston slap. Noise is most noticeable when the engine is cold with light to medium acceleration. The noise disappears as the engine warms
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- Excessive clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall
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- Engine noise, lower end - light double knock or sharp rap sound. Occurs mostly with a warm engine at idle or low speeds in drive. Increases in relation to engine load. Associated with a poor lubrication history
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- Excessive clearance between the piston and the piston pin
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- Excessive clearance between the piston and the connecting rod
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- Engine noise, lower end - light knocking noise. The noise is most noticeable when the engine is warm. The noise tends to decrease when the vehicle is coasting or in NEUTRAL
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- Excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
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- Engine noise, lower end - Deep knocking noise. The noise is most noticeable when the engine is warm, at lower rpm and under a light load and then at float
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- Worn or damaged crankshaft main bearings
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- Engine noise, rear of engine - knocking noise at rear of engine
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- Damaged flywheel/flexplate
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- Engine vibration - vibration felt at all times
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- Excessive engine pulley runout
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- CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REFER to ENGINE ACCESSORY TEST
. INSTALL a new engine pulley as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Damaged or worn accessory component
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- CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REFER to ENGINE ACCESSORY TEST
. REPAIR or INSTALL a new component as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine vibration - at idle, a low-frequency vibration (5-20 Hz) or mild shake that is felt through the seat/floorpan
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- Using the scan tool, CARRY OUT the cylinder power balance and the relative compression test. REPAIR as necessary. Refer to ENGINE
(2.5L), ENGINE
(Hybrid), ENGINE
(3.0L) and ENGINE
(3.5L)
for the procedure. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine or torque converter out of balance
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- Engine vibration - is felt with increases and decreases in engine rpm
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- Engine or transmission grounded to chassis
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- INSPECT the powertrain/drivetrain for correct clearances. REPAIR as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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- Engine vibration - increases intensity as the engine rpm is increased
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- Engine vibration - mostly at coast/neutral coast. Condition improves with vehicle acceleration
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- Engine vibration or shudder - occurs with light to medium acceleration above 56 km/h (35 mph)
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- Worn or damaged spark plugs
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- INSPECT the fuel for contamination. DRAIN the fuel system and refill. TEST the system for normal operation after the repair.
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